Both transmit a voltage signal to an electronic control module or to the car's computer. Compare your reading to the specification in your vehicle repair manual. So, even though I disconnected the driver side pipe where the sensor is located, there was not enough flex to drop the pipe from its bolt. Those sensors are almost bullet proof. If neither wire has current, there's a failure in the sensor's circuit. It is common for the bung to become stuck if it is done up too tight, if this is the case chisel the bung from the side….
If you have experienced any of the warning signs listed above, let them know you think it may be the camshaft position sensor. Throttle or pedal position sensor. I have replaced the crankshaft sensor but with no luck. A failing sensor signal, for example, may be hard to check without special equipment. They just dont go bad hardly. Try spraying some carburetor cleaner around the intake and vacuum lines. I don't know how to check it and costly to replace.
The problem is more likely to be in the circuit, between one of the sensors and the computer power or ground , a short. It may take some time of driving miles before it relearns the best engine operating conditions for your vehicle. That will also set a P0340. I erased the codes and it still was happening. It should take about 5-10 minutes to replace it. I only had an oil change done in June it is now December and only 4,000 K since then.
Some sensors come with a spacer to give the proper distance when installed. This other post can give you an idea on misfires: However, you might want to scan the computer for trouble codes, even if the check engine light is not coming on. This is only a temporary solution and the problem will reappear so replacement of the sensor is necessary as a permanent fix. Then someone said to check out the crankshaft position sensor, so I replaced it and still nothing. Most of this was due to the connector, and that it was very cold and my hands simply got numb its hard to feel around an engine when you can't feel your fingertips.
A big contributing factor to causing these things to go bad in the first place is usually not changing the oil often enough or switching up brands of oil. Could be anything from spark plugs to where it all begins. If you removed the spacer or fell before installation, the sensor may have the sensing surfaced burned. That cause the new spark plug on cylinder 1 to get gunked up again. There may be a lean condition.
Any ideas of what the problem could be? Also, download trouble codes, there may be pending codes. This will leave you unable to start the car. I am debating wether or not I do have a faulty sensor what's your thoughts and if not what else could cause the pinking sound on a modern engine? This other post can help you check the crank and camshaft sensors. I held the harness connector against something on the engine with one finger couldn't really see what it was against , and used my other fingers and other had to push the sensor connector into the harness connector and somehow I got lucky and they snapped together. Now its November and showing the same symptoms. I replaced the same sensor in August. If you suspect a leak, have it checked.
If it has the 4. I refitted the old cam sensor to get back to the spares shop to exchange the sensor which they didn't have any more of just my luck! You may need to remove it and look for carbon deposits as well around the passages. That means the engine will need to use more gas and your morning commute will use up more fuel than usual. Note: Do not over tighten the 7mm bolts when you replace! Stalling As seen with rough idling, sometimes crankshaft sensor problems are worse at low engine speeds. Lucky not a lot of traffic.
If there's a problem with the signal plate, it's possible to have a misfire in one cylinder. I had just done my head gaskets, and that little gasket came with my set. A lot of time on your part! Rotate the throttle valve manually and check the bore and under the valve. These problems result mainly from poor combustion, which stifles the engine. The symptoms your engine may experience at this point can vary, depending on the type of sensor failure: for example, a problem in the circuit, the connector, the sensor itself, or a related component.