I installed the round washer and big nut. It is very simple to do and very cheap. We found that both the inner and outer bearings were in relatively good condition. I needed to take some material off the pinion gear to make the bearing slide back and forth. Or for that matter inspecting the differential spider and gears. This bearing needs to be able to move back and forth during the preload set up. I would like to the point the old books say to measure from.
Not a lot of heat just got her warm. Much as been discussed on the subject of setting the pre-load on the tapered roller bearings that support the differential carrier. Josh and Jeremy up at trails powder coating took care of my while the pinion was put into the freezer and the banjo was masked to keep powder out of the insides and out of all bearing races and bell attachment areas. Model T Rearend Rebuilding Model T Rear Axle Rebuilding The Differential Above Left Is Removed From The Axle Halves Above Right. The standard ratio of 3.
By on Thursday, January 29, 2009 - 03:49 pm: I think some of you are confusing the solid roller Hyatt bearing replacements with the roller type thrust washers. If you not going to powder coat you center section a torch will work. Dude is 65 years old and still breaking shit. Art By on Thursday, January 29, 2009 - 07:08 am: Art - so there are brass thrust washers out there too? Backlash My experience with replacement ring and pinion gears is limited to 3. With some pumps of the handle the whole pinion assembly started moving and she was out. It is probably less than a fifty bucker at most machine shops. I made a Gear change and purchased new bearings.
By Grant Baker on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 12:16 pm: I have a couple questions on my differential rebuild. Remove the split pin and axle nut, then using a hub puller, remove the rear wheel. And a 3 ½ piece of pipe with a cap of ¼ steel welded on top. He brought over all the parts to my house so I could start the process of rebuilding a rear end that will hopefully hold up to his Right foot. The first one I used a punch and taping on the seal in a circle. And I liked the way it worked.
The chrome bells seemed to looked rusty on the inside. What should be checked out inside the carrier and if there is a problem, what could I do about it? Now there are several more, involving personal injuries. I only have one Banjo rear end under my belt before building this one. Then I set the other half of the diff Big Half with the bearing in place and set it in the vertical bell on the Cart. Make sure this does not hold up the spider gears from fitting down in the correct position. Accurate location of cylinder bores, valve guides and seats, etc.
Use the Back button on your browser or click on the arrow to return. It is entirely possible that the needle bearing thrust washers failed because they were not properly installed. After the tap the Factory Ford bolts went in just fine. Took the knots and wedged them in between the spider gears and the axle end. This rope will temporarily lock the one axle into the diff while I set the preload on the diff bearings. I tried to go cheap and broke it on its first use. I ran a telescoping magnet down the inside of the bells and same out with a bunch of rusty flakes.
Never install bearings or races dry. I drilled both rivets out and pushed them through with a punch and the retainer dropped. My only experience with some sort of ball or radial roller thrust washers is to pull a friend back to his place. It had been howling for a couple months before he broke it. If the bearing is junk, cut the cage and get some heat in it.
The Bells: I knocked out the old axle seals. I almost have it together. I will not install the new seals until the end of the build. In some instances, I have seen enough here as a result of worn tapers from loose wheels that the key has been able to roll over on its edge in the keyway and cause extensive damage. Prepare the pinion to install in banjo: The gear set I am using is brand new and a problem I found with the pinion is that the pinion was not machined enough from the factory to get the bearing on the splined end to slide freely. In the following picture, a comparison is made between a well worn axle and a brand new reproduction axle.
What I am talking about is the fit of the case that holds the spider gears and how it fits on the axle gears. Even the Late Great Richard Johnson of Burbank didn't know about the tight holes until I had him do some machine work on my Model A banjos and told me what he'd done. Check the wear inside the case where the thrust surface of the axle fits. By Grant Baker on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 12:23 pm: All the bearings and sleeves will have to be replaced. In this case, they are in pretty good condition. The two photo's above show damage to the axle. So he scrounged around in his shop for some extra rear end parts that we had left over from when I built a Columbia two speed banjo rear end for a 28 Model A roadster that he and I built.