This measurement will give you a baseline to go back to and you can then adjust the clutch pedal free play to fall in the manufacturer's specification range for your vehicle. The adjuster mechanism has two parts: the half bolted to the firewall protrudes into the firewall, not out and away from it. Now measure the clutch pedal freeplay as outlined in part one. Now that you have adjusted your clutch pedal, you can enjoy the smooth clutch while driving. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.
Too little thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far forward and bottom out against the front side of the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm. The fancy 2 and 3 hook quadrants are for use with stock length cable and a firewall adjuster. Raise the car securely on ramps or axle stands, with the applied and the wheels chocked. On some cars, it may be possible to use either of the methods shown for checking and adjusting at the lever. If there is not enough clearance in the linkage, the inner cable has to be made longer. With the outer cable pulled back, use a ruler to measure the distance between the cable stop and the adjuster nut on the end of the outer cable. The locknut and adjuster nut are on the threaded end of the cable.
Step 2: Reinstall any parts removed. The typical replacement is a non-adjustable,. Once fitted the bite point was very high and the new clutch was slipping. Preparing for Adjustment Before adjusting the clutch cable tension, inspect everything in the system to ensure proper installation. Check in your car handbook or service manual. I have the correct case. This is known as clutch drag, and it can cause difficulties in heavy traffic.
I found this out the hard way. The difference between the two measurements - the amount of free travel of the lever on the cable - is the cable clearance. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. If there is too much, it has to be made shorter. Use the firewall adjuster and screw in and out to take the slack out of the cable and get the clutch engagement point just where you want it.
Pull the cable through the bulkhead as far as it will go and count the number of grooves; compare with the specification for the car. Checking and adjusting a hydraulic clutch Unhook the pull-off spring from the slave-cylinder body and the operating lever, so that you can push the operating lever as far as it will go to measure its travel. I myself would modify this as an engineer. The parts guy told me the parts I bought are still under warranty. Newer vehicles use a hydraulic clutch and slave cylinder that are self adjusting and do not require adjustments. .
Mark the height of the clutch pedal without depressing it at all. Locate the clutch cable and find where the outer cable is seated against its cable stop on the edge of the bell housing. Believing the old cable might be at fault, I had a new auto adjusting cable fitted and the bite point dropped to the floor and it's still slipping! Posted on Mar 05, 2009 The reason for the high biting point is simple. Be aware that once you remove the stock self-adjusting mechanism, clutch cable adjustment is no longer automatic! Even in a stock setup, age degrades the plastic and breakage becomes more likely with each passing year. Their job is to prevent grinding but you said you almost can't avoid it.
In 2008, the average recorded saving for their new customers was 15. Depress the clutch several times and check the feel of the pedal. This method is used on some old cars. This keeps the throwout bearing in constant contact with the fingers on the clutch pressure plate diaphragm. If and when the adjusting sleeve moves up grab one of the wire ends and wrap it around the little tab that's sticking out, then the other side. Sadly these safety devices are regularly damaged during transport or inadvertently removed before installation.
This can be done by a second mechanic, using cable ties. That will allow you to move the quadrant to allow more slack in the cable. Set a block of wood down next to the clutch pedal. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. As I have a spare cable adjuster already loosened , I was able to try to reset it. Compare it with the maker's specified figure and adjust if necessary. Once the clearance is correct, reconnect the pull-off spring.
The locknut and the adjuster nut are on the threaded end of the pushrod. Measure the distance between the marks on the wooden block. Unlock the pull-off spring from the clutch operating lever. Tony What you are finding Tony is actually normal. Hold the cable and pull it away from the bulkhead as far as it will go.
Can you describe the set up then i might be able to help some more. I guess and hope it's a matter of fine tuning the adjuster. The difference between the two measurements is the clutch clearance. Periodic Adjustment As the clutch disc wears, the friction material gets thinner, causing the cable tension to increase. Why would it make a difference? However, what you actually want to do for regular maintenance is decrease the cable tension. I know this is an old post, but in case someone else is reading this.